Catalonia Region Barcelona + Tarragona + Lloret de Mar

Girona + Figueres

Valencia Region Valencia + Sagunto + Xátiva + Buñol

Alcoi + Alicante + Altea

Murcia Region Murcia

Trip Overview

We concentrated this adventure along Spain’s northern Mediterranean coastal region, starting near the French border and continuing down the coast as far south as Murcia. The first region we visited, Catalonia, is cooler and lusher than the other regions. We found that as we traveled south, the terrain became more and more arid. While in Catalonia, we visited the provinces of Girona, Barcelona, and Tarragona. Catalonians have a different culture and language then the rest of Spain. 32% of the region consider Catalan to be their first language, and many want to break off from Spain to become an independent country. The second region we traveled to was Valencia where we visited the provinces of Valencia and Alicante. Valencians also have a different culture and language from the rest of Spain. In this region 50% of its residents consider Valencian to be their first language. However, the Valencians are not into maintaining language and cultural purity as much as the Catalonians and are not interested in breaking away from Spain. Our final region was Murcia which is a pure Spanish speaking region.

Barcelona

Overview – With over eight million tourist a year, Barcelona is the third most visited city in all of Europe. And there is a good reason for this. Barcelona has it all, from beautiful wide beaches along its coast to romantic narrow alleyways in its old city. There is an overwhelming variety of things to see and do in this city The assortment of beautiful architecture is endless, the large public markets are tantalizing, and the vast pedestrian districts filled with restaurants, cafes and nightclubs are easy to fall in love with. With nearly 190 miles of dedicated bike trails and over 500 bike rental stations, this is a great city to explore on two wheels. Barcelona also has significant meaning for Sandra and me. In 2002, this is where I proposed to her. Fortunately, she accepted.

Barcelona and Antoni Gaudi – It is impossible to talk about Barcelona without mentioning the influence of Antoni Gaudí (1852 to 1926) on the city. The architect’s distinctive style is part of the city’s identity. Barcelona and Gaudí are inseparable and no visit to this beautiful city would be complete without taking in at least two or three of his creations.

Demographics – With a metro population of 5.7 MM, Barcelona is Spain’s second biggest city. Only 49% of its residents speak Castilian Spanish as their first language, 30% speak Catalan, and 21% are foreign born. Among the foreign born, Italians make up the biggest group followed by Ecuadorians and Pakistanis.

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Casa Vicens – Built in 1885, this private home was Gaudí’s first commission. The house’s facade is awash with ceramic tiles in different shapes and colors reminiscent of Mudéjar style of brick making, which is a fusion of Gothic and Islamic architecture.

Casa Batlló – Built in 1906 for the wealthy Batlló family to be their five-story dream house, Casa Batllo’s exteriors shimmer with a wild canvas of blue, green and purple tilework, a dragon-back-shaped rooftop and wavy mask-shaped balconies. The interior spaces are just as fanciful with

wave-like wooden windows, swirling ceilings, and arches in the attic resembling an animal’s ribcage. The house is a popular tourist destination, so you would need to reserve a time slot in advance. An audio tour is included with the admission price.

Sagrada Familia – With nearly five million visitors a year, the Sagrada Familia Expiatory Temple is by far the city’s biggest attraction and Gaudi’s crowning achievement. Construction began in 1882, and when completed, hopefully soon, it will be the tallest church in the world. Construction has been taking such a long time because even with the help of modern technologies, architects and engineers have been finding it challenging to bring to life the complex geometric shapes envisioned by Gaudi. Gaudi’s vision was to exemplify God’s work by incorporating natural symbols into his architecture with organic, geometric shapes in every column, pinnacle and stained-glass window. Look closely at the helmets worn by the guardian angels adorning the facade of the church. It is believed that they were the inspiration for the stormtroopers in Star Wars. On this trip, we did not pay the pricey admission fee to see the church’s interior spaces. We did this tour during our 2002 visit and decided not to tour it again until after its completion.

Park Güell – When we visited this city park in 2002 it was free. Since then, the locals have complained that it was getting too crowded with tourists. To visit the park now, you need to book a time slot in advance and pay for a high priced ticket. Locals still get in for free whenever they want. What attracts visitors to this large hilly city park are Gaudi’s fanciful structures that include a colorful tiled dragon stairway, undulating structures that merge in harmony with nature supported by organic looking stone columns, and a massive wavy balcony offering imposing views of the Barcelona skyline. Here Gaudi first used the mosaic technique of trencadís that clad surfaces, structures, and sculptures with small, broken pieces of ceramic tiles creating elements reflecting the natural world. If you look closely, you can see motifs of animals and flowers scattered throughout the park.

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Mercat del Born – The former Born neighborhood marketplace, built in 1873, is a large handsome structure of iron and glass. Abandoned in the 1970s the market was left untouched until excavations began in 2001 to convert the space to a provincial library. While digging, the works unearthed remains of whole streets with some sections dating back to Roman and Islamic times. The area within the market is now preserved. Walk around the perimeter of the dig and you will find multilanguage panels giving information about the ruins. Admission is free.

Palace of Catalan Music (Palau de la Música Catalana) – This 2,000-seat concert hall built in the early 1900s is an architectural jewel bursting with a fanciful symphony in tiled mosaics, sculpted stone, and stained glass. Unfortunately, this grand building was built on a narrow street, so it is not possible to step back and fully appreciate Its splendor.

El Caganer Statues – The caganer is a uniquely Catalonian Christmas tradition of figurines happily taking a dump. Today these ceramic pieces are often made in the image of famous celebrities or politicians. I have even seen a group of Yodas proudly producing green turds. The Caganers date back to the 1700s and were used as part of nativity scenes. It was believed that the Caganers symbolically fertilized the land to provide the owners of the figurine with prosperity. And if that did not work at least it would make them smile.

Three Kings Parade – On the evening of January 5th Barcelona comes alive with numerous neighborhood parades. The parade winding through the downtown area is the most spectacular with dazzling floats, dancers, music, and light shows. The purpose of the parades is to welcome the Three Kings of the Orient to the city. The main parade starts in the harbor where after arriving by boat, the kings are greeted by the mayor who gives them a magical key to the city that will open all of its doors, allowing the kings to drop off presents for the kids.

Tarragona

Overview – Tarragona (population 136,000) founded in the 5th century BCE is the third oldest city on the Iberian Peninsula. When the Romans came in 218 BCE, they made it their regional capital. Eventually Tarragona would become the largest and wealthiest city in Spain. This is evident from the vast array of Roman ruins scattered around the old city. A single ticket would get you into the Roman Amphitheater, Praetorium and Roman Circus, Forum of the Colony, and the Walls Archaeological Walk. Wow, what a deal

Getting There – There are two train lines from Barcelona. A local one which takes under two hours and drops you off next to the city center and a half-hour express train that deposits you on the outskirts of town requiring an additional bus ride.

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Castell Human Towers – Castells are human towers built by club teams called colles castelleres as a part of annual festivities that are held between June and November. The Castell tradition began near Tarragona in the 1700 and is now performed throughout the region. Long hours are spent practicing the building technique and every Casteller has a specific position and function within the Castell with the strongest at the bottom and the lighter ones up top. The position at the very top, the Anxenta, is usually assigned to a five-year-old child. After reaching the top, the Anxenta must raise their arms and greet the crowd before the Castell can start to dismantle itself. A typical Castells could be as high as ten levels.

Girona

Overview – Girona’s (population 107,000) large old town, which dates to the 1st century BCE, is filled with medieval buildings with Roman, Arab and Jewish influences. In the old city there is a well curated Museum of Jewish History, the widest Gothic church in the world, a Benedictine monastery, Arab Baths, and one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Spain. Girona is the one of the few cities in Europe to have kept most of its defensive walls intact. Most of Europe’s formerly walled cities removed them in part or in their entirety in the mid-1800s when they were no longer needed to make room for the cities to grow. It was fun walking on top from one end of the wall to the other, peering down upon the city. Because of the old city’s unique look, it was used as a filming location for numerous Game of Thrones scenes.

Getting There – There are two train lines from Barcelona. A one-hour local and a half-hour express. Both have separate stations that are next door to each other and are within easy walking distance of the city center.

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Figueres

Overview – The main attraction of Figures (Population 48,000) is it being the hometown of the surrealist artist Salvador Dali.

Getting There – There are two train lines from Barcelona. A two-hour local train and a one-hour express. Both have separate stations on opposite sides of the city. The local train station is within walking distance of the city center. Arriving at the express station would require a long walk or taking a connecting bus.

Dalí Theatre-Museum – Salvador Dalí wanted to put his hometown of Figueres on the map. He succeeded in doing this by creating one of the most flamboyant art museums one could ever imagine visiting. The museum sits inside a red castle-like building with walls covered in rows of yellow loaves of bread and topped on its roof's parapet with giant eggs. My favorite installation was the Mae West Room where we found a sofa in the shape of lips, sitting in front of a fireplace in the shape of a nose flanked by two paintings of eyes, all surrounded by drapes in the shape of a hairdo. Climb a set of stairs and peer through a looking glass and the room takes on a totally different look. This museum is very popular, so tickets need to be purchased well in advance.

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Sant Ferran Castle – Built in the 1750s as a deterrent to French invaders, Sant Ferran Castle commands the surrounding plains from a low hill just a mile from the city center. The fortress is a wonder of military engineering encompassing an area of 80 acres. This massive complex was capable of housing 6,000 men and 450 horses.

Lloret de Mar

Overview – Lloret de Mar (population 41,000) is the main summer beach party town in the region. There is a district near the beach filled with bars and nightclubs. In the winter most of the businesses in this district and much of the rest of the city are closed shut. We found the winter restaurant selection to be very limited. If you are not into partying, the main reason to come to Lloret is to explore its spectacular beaches and rocky shorelines.

Getting There – There is a one-hour express bus from Barcelona.

Cami de Ronda – The Cami de Ronda is a 135-mile hiking trail that weaves in and out from the coast beginning in the town of Blanes and ending in Portbou on the French Border. Completing the entire trail takes on average 10 to 14 days with an elevation gain of 11,700 feet. Only portions of this trail hug the coast, with the remainder passing through inland parks and along residential roadways. The portions of the trail along the coast are amazing with its isolated stony beaches and sheer cliffs. The area reminded us of our time spent along Highway One in northern California. For the adventurous hikers wanting to keep closer to the coast there is a series of very rough trails intersecting with the main one. We found this route to be too difficult and had to backtrack to the main trail. The entire rough trail route has a combined elevation gain of 19,500 feet. During our visit we spent two days on the Cami de Ronda. One day hiking from Blanes to Lloret de Mar and the next hiking from Lloret de Mar to Tossa de Mar.

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Girona Province Road Trip

Overview – We wanted to see the rolling countryside of Girona and explore its beautiful medieval villages. So, we rented a car in Lloret del Mar for two days. All the medieval villages we visited were very well preserved with little signs of 21st century encroachment. Walking the streets of these villages was like travelling back in time. Almost all the structures we walked pass appeared to be occupied. These villages are not open-air museums but rather living communities.

Santa Pau – Santa Pau (population 1,600) is home to a beautiful medieval village with a maze of cobblestone lanes that eventually led us to the attractive colonnaded Plaça Major.

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Castellfollit de la Roca – What makes the village of Castellfollit (population 900) special is that it sits atop and along the edges of a 150 feet tall, blackened basalt rock formation. From below it appears as if these structures are growing out of the face of the cliff. The best views of the village are from a trail that snakes around the rock formation eventually rising steeply to the formation’s surface.

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Besalú – The old city of Besalú (population 2,500) is one of the largest in the region and is more of a tourist destination than other medieval villages we visited. The main things to see there are the remnants of the old Jewish quarter, a 12th century Romanesque bridge, and the church of Sant Pere.

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Peratallada – Peratallada (population 200) is home to a network of cobblestone streets and splendid stone houses covered with vines and bougainvillea surrounded by both a wall and a moat.

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Pals – Perched on top of a fortified hilltop, some of the buildings in Pals (population 2,500), our final medieval village, dates to the 9th century. This includes the church of Sant Pere which was built and rebuilt numerous times. In the 11th century Pals became home to a castle. All that remains of the castle today is a 45-foot-tall tower.

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Sant Feliu de Guíxols – Sant Feliu (population 22,000) is a beautiful beach town with impressive rocky shores that sits along the Cami de Ronda trail. In late August the city comes alive with La Trobada Gegantera (The Encounter of Giants) which includes a parade and dance of twelve-foot-tall giant figures representing royals, peasants, mythical beings and animals. While we were exploring the town we were lucky enough to witness a couple of giants practicing for the event.

Valencia

Overview – With over 1,200 acres of park lands Valencia is one of the greenest cities in Europe and home to Spain’s largest city park, Jardines del Turia, which is nearly half the size of New York’s Central Park. Adding to this abundance of greenery is a touch of orange from the city’s 12,000 citrus trees. From its old town with its thriving culture, eating and nightlife scenes to its strikingly futuristic buildings in the City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia is a fabulous place to spend numerous days exploring on foot or by renting a bike and traversing its 124 miles of dedicated bike trails. Though the outskirts of the city borders the sea, Valencia is not a beach town. Getting to the beach from the city center takes over half an hour by bus and the urban beaches here are not as interesting as the ones in Barcelona and Alicante.

Demographics – With a metro population of 2.5 MM, Valencia is Spain’s third largest city. Only 55% of its residents speak Castilian Spanish as their first language, 32% speak Valencian, and 13% are foreign born. Among the foreign born, Romanians make up the biggest group followed by Italians and Chinese.

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Plazas and Squares – Valencia has a couple of noteworthy plazas and numerous hidden smaller squares scattered around the city. The most notable plazas are Plaza de la Reina and the Plaza de la Virgin which are separated from each other by the city Cathedral. There is also Town Hall Square, home to an imposing fountain and bordered by stately buildings. We found the smaller squares, off the beaten path, to be more pleasant places to enjoy a few moments of relaxation.

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City of Arts and Sciences (Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias) – This futuristic complex is filled with a collection of stunning buildings, gardens, promenades, and pools filling a massive 87-acre tract of land. Designed in the 1990s by world-famous, locally born architect Santiago Calatrava, the complex is home to an opera house, a science museum, the largest IMAX screen in Spain and the largest aquarium in Europe. My Wisconsin readers will recognize the similar style of architecture in the Milwaukee Art Museum which Calatrava also designed. The complex is so futuristic it has been used as a backdrop in numerous science fiction movies and television shows such as Tomorrowland, Doctor Who, Westworld, and Star Wars Andor.

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City Hall (Ajuntament de Valencia) – Valencia's administrative building with its grand marble staircase is one of the most ornate city halls we have ever visited. The building is also home to a collection of fine paintings, marble furnishings, The Crystal Room features large chandeliers, mirrors and painted ceilings and the Municipal Historical Archive and Museum. Tourists can step out onto the balcony for a view of Town Hall Square and imagine that you are a dignitary greeting the crowds below

City Gates – A thousand years ago, a formidable set of walls surrounded the old city of Valencia protecting it from the outside world. During that time anyone wanting to gain access to the city had to pass through one of its twelve gates. Today, the medieval walls are gone, but two of its massive gates remain. These are the Torres de Serranos to the north, and the Torres de Quart to the west. Considering their age, the gates are in remarkably good condition, except for the still visible cannonball marks in the Quart gate from an early 1800s battle. For a small fee you can climb all the way to the top of either gate for great views of the city.

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Valencia Cathedral – Valencia’s cathedral was built in the 1200s over a mosque. Its low wide triple nave is mostly Gothic, while its side chapels are neoclassical. Inside the cathedral is an impressive museum that houses rich Italianate frescos, a pair of Goyas, and what is claimed to be the original Holy Grail. An audio guide is provided with the admission ticket, and for an additional fee, climb the 207 steps of Torre del Micalet's spiral staircase for the best views of the city.

The Silk Exchange (La Lonja de la Seda) – Built in the late 1400s, the Lonja is considered to be one of Europe’s finest examples of a civil Gothic building. During this period, Valencia was awash in money from a booming trade industry, and it was decided that the city needed an impressive structure to show off this wealth and to function as a meeting place for the merchants. Three main structures flank an orange-studded courtyard. The Sala de Contratación, a cathedral of commerce, with soaring twisted 57-foot-high pillars, a tower that housed imprisoned merchants who did not play by the rules and the Consulado del Mar with its stunning coffered ceiling.

Marques de Dos Aguas Palace – Built in the mid-1700s, the palace stands out for its outlandishly decorated main doorway made from alabaster. Over the centuries numerous renovations were made incorporating Rococo, New Imperialism and even Chinese designs, giving the palace an eclectic look. The palace is now used as a museum with its decadent furnishings and decorations on display, and its upper floor houses an impressive exhibition of ceramics dating from different time periods.

Manises – Since the 1300s Manises, a suburb of Valencia, has been home to businesses famed throughout Europe for their manufacturing of exquisite tiles and ceramic pieces. These factories began shutting down in the 1800s, and few remain today, but many buildings in the old part of town are still adorned with their tiles. Manises also has a ceramics school and a very nicely curated Museum of Ceramics.

Fallas Festival – During the middle of March, Valencia becomes overrun by Fallas ("to torch") celebrations. The Fallas started in the Middle Ages when carpenters would celebrate St Joseph's holiday (the patron saint of carpenters) by burning small wooden sculptures. Today, instead of small figurines, groups and clubs all over the region labor for long hours to produce elaborate full size ninots sculptures made of wood, styrofoam, and paper mâché. Some ninots contain subtle political or social messages. Others are realistic or nostalgic. Since the mid-1930’s, a competition has been held to select the best ninot. Visitors and locals vote for their favorite, and the winner is “pardoned”, while all the other misfortunate ninots are burned in massive bonfires. The annual winners are on display in the Fallas Museum. The public display of the ninots started after we left town. However, we were lucky enough to be walking past the drop off point on the evening the entries were being delivered and caught a glimpse of some of these marvels.

Buñol

Overview – Buñol (population 9,000) is a picturesque mountain town. The most interesting places to visit here are a very hilly old town and a 13th century castle. At the time of our visit, the grounds of the castle were open, but all the interior spaces were closed due to renovation. With many nearby trailheads, Buñol is considered to be one of the best towns in the region for hiking. Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to try any of them out. Buñol is most famous for its Tomatina Festival held in August when thousands of people go out into the streets to throw ripened tomatoes at each other.

Elevation – With an elevation of 1,400 feet, Buñol is one of the highest towns in the Valencia region.

Getting There – Normally you can get to Buñol with a one-hour train ride from Valencia. However, because of the devastating floods the region recently experienced the only way to get to Buñol until a critical bridge is rebuilt is by taking an hour and a half bus ride.

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Sagunto

Overview – Sagunto (population 66,000) is an ancient city with excellent Roman, Moorish and Gothic ruins which includes an 11th century castle, a Roman road and a Roman amphitheater that is still being used today. The city is also home to an interesting historic quarter to explore. A great spot for a day trip from Valencia.

Getting There – There is a half-hour train from Valencia that drops you off in the city center.

Sagunto Castle – Sagunto's castle is a huge complex almost a full kilometer in length. The complex has not been well preserved and lies mostly in ruins. Unfortunately, the castle was closed for renovations at the time of our visit. However, we were able to get good exterior views by following a rough trail that encircles the complex. The only way to reach the castle is by taxi or hiking 400 feet up from the city.

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Roman Road (Calzada Romana Via del Portic) – The 200 feet long paved roadway that has been excavated is believed to date back to the 1st century. The roadway includes a sewage network and sidewalks and is surrounded by a grid of ruined buildings. The excavation occupies the ground floor of an apartment building. Hanging over the excavation is the glass enclosed walkway to the apartment’s elevator. Imagine walking over an ancient Roman city every day to get to your apartment. Admission is free.

Xátiva

Overview – The historical district of Xátiva (population 30,000) is huge and occupies at least a third of the city. It was fun getting lost in its maze of narrow streets and alleyways. The city’s claim to fame is that it is the birthplace of not one, but two popes: Calixto III (1455 to 1458) and Alexander VI (1492 to 1503), two members of the influential Borgia family. Xàtiva is also known as “the city of a thousand fountains”. Since the Islamic period, the city has boasted an extensive network of public drinking fountains, and by the 1600s there were nearly a thousand of these water sources, which was very advanced for that time.

Getting There – There is a one-hour train from Valencia and a one-hour-and-a-half train from Alicante that drops you off in the city center.

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Xátiva Castle – The complex straddles the summit of a double-peaked hill with two separate castles facing each other joined by a walled courtyard. Most of the castle’s exterior walls are still intact but many of its interior buildings lack roofs. The oldest castle is believed to have been built in the 3rd century BCE and is where Hannibal planned his conquest of Rome. The newer castle is believed to have been built in the 10th century. To get to the castles you can either follow a trail 1,000 feet up through a pristine wooded park or take a tourist train that zips up the hill a couple of times a day from the tourist office.

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Alcoy

Overview – Alcoy (population 61,000) is off the beaten path and is not visited by many tourists. But there is enough to do here to warrant a visit. The city sits next door to the Serra Mariola National Park with some of its trailheads starting in the city. There is also the Carrascal de la Font Roja Natural Park less than a 20-minute drive away. And if that is not enough, Alcoy is home to several popular dedicated bike trails. We planned on doing a couple of hikes during our visit, but unfortunately, Sandra was not feeling well at that time. The city also offers an abundance of beautiful architecture, and a handful of interesting museums. Known as the town of bridges, Alcoy is defined by two deep gorges that run east and west of the city’s center converging at a point to its north. Traveling from the east side of town through the city center to the west side of town would require passing over two bridges suspended high above abandoned industrial buildings and beautiful parks. The most impressive is the 138 feet tall San Jordi Bridge that was built in an Art Deco style.

Elevation – With an elevation of 1,800 feet, Alcoy was the highest and coldest city we visited.

Getting There – From Alicante there is a two-hour bus and from Valencia one would need to take a train to Xátiva and then transfer for a total transit time of two-and-a-half hours.

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Alicante

Overview – Alicante is a laidback city that's highly favored among the party going set. What attracts these hordes of tourists is Alicante’s long, beautiful beaches, and legendary nightlife. Yet Alicante has a lot more to offer other than just its waterfront. It is a vibrant city with interesting architecture, beautiful parks, a massive castle, interesting museums, and an attractive old quarter. Many of Alicante's buildings were damaged or destroyed during Spain’s civil war. Some of these buildings were restored to their former glory, while others were replaced with new ones. This has led to an interesting blend of old and new architectural styles.

Demographics – With a metro population of 793.000, Alicante is Spain’s eighth largest city. Only 39% of its residents speak Castilian Spanish as their first language, 36% speak Valencian, and 25% are foreign born. Among the foreign born, Ukrainians and Colombians make up the largest groups.

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Alicante’s Waterfront – Alicante had the most impressive waterfront of all the cities we visited. The downtown waterfront area is divided into three sections. These are the Explanada de España, Postiguet Beach, and the Marina. The wave-like patterns of mosaic tiles of the esplanade reminded us of the popular beaches in Rio de Janeiro. Lined with palm trees, beautiful historic buildings and trendy restaurants, this esplanade is the perfect place for a stroll or to relax and have a drink. Across the street from the esplanade is the Marina where you can take in wonderful views of the city and marvel at the upper-class toys on display. Next door to the esplanade and marina is Postiguet Beach with its beachside cafes, white sand, volleyball nets, watersport rentals, and unobstructed views of Santa Barbara Castle. For those wanting a quieter less touristy experience there is also Albufereta Beach a 20-minute bus ride away and the 3.7-mile-long San Juan Beach a 40-minute bus ride away.

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Santa Barbara Castle – Situated on a mountaintop offering sweeping panoramic views of Alicante and the Mediterranean Sea, Santa Barbara is one of the Spain’s largest and most impressive medieval fortresses. The castle was originally built in the 800s by the Moors. Little remains from that period and most of the castle that we see today was built during the 1200s and 1500s. The castle has remained largely intact and well preserved all these years. The massive complex sits in three levels, each offering different perspectives of the fortress and the city below. Inside there is a museum on the history of the city and several rooms housing temporary exhibitions. To reach the castle you can hike the 600 feet up the hill through a park or take the elevator that rises through the bowels of the mountain to the summit. Admission to the castle is free, but there is a small fee to take the elevator up. The ride down is free.

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Santa Cruz Neighborhood – Santa Cruz is Alicante’s oldest neighborhood and with its Moorish style architecture its most picturesque. It is a small area Nestled within a “V” shape opening in the mountainside below Santa Barbara Castle. The neighborhood starts out just a few blocks wide at street level with winding alleyways rising very quickly past whitewashed houses with colorful tiles and friezes and brightly painted doorways, ending at a stairway that leads to the park surrounding the castle.

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Cape Huerta Nature Preserve – Cabo de la Huerta is a protected area located between the two developed urban beaches of Albufereta and San Juan. There is a four-mile-long trail connecting the two beaches that took us through a surprisingly rugged natural landscape. The rough, rocky shoreline here is quite different to the typical flat sandy beaches we saw throughout this region. Here the shoreline is filled with unique limestone rock formations eroded by the crystallization of sea salts. The most scenic and secluded spot along the trail is Cantalar Cove. With its wild and rocky breakwaters this cove is a popular place for snorkeling and nude bathing. Our hike was not a totally natural experience. Perhaps a third of the trail was either within sight of or adjacent to the property lines of residential buildings.

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Altea

Overview – Perched high on top of a hill overlooking the Mediterranean, the historic quarter of Altea (population 23,000) is one of the most famous and touristy in the region. The old town is a maze of narrow steep cobbled stone streets lined with beautiful Moorish style whitewashed houses. Most of the houses along its main streets have been converted into trendy restaurants, craft shops and art galleries. The main attraction here is the Church of the Virgin of Consuelo topped by a wide dome covered with strikingly blue and white tiles. Altea is also popular for its seaside district filled with bars and restaurants and an attractive three-mile long pebbly (not sandy) beach.

Getting There – Altea is just a one-hour bus ride from Alicante.

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Alicante Province Road Trip

Overview – We wanted to see the Alicante countryside and explore two of its most beautiful medieval villages. These towns are difficult to reach via public transit, so, we rented a car for a day.

Biar – The village of Biar (Population 3,600) and its castle were established in the 1200s as a border post. The castle which stands majestically on a hilltop is a well-preserved example of medieval architecture. The way to the castle took us up through the narrow, cobbled streets of Biar’s historic district past traditional whitewashed houses adorned with colorful flowers. The town is also home to the Church of Our Lady of Assumption, which has some stunning Gothic architecture.

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Bocairent – The historic district of Bocairent (Population 4,100) is a medieval jewel with steep cobbled streets, bubbling fountains, picturesque ruins, and pretty chapels.

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Murcia

Overview – Though Murcia is not on the radar of many tourists, it is a pleasant laid-back city with a handful of interesting sights worth visiting. What we enjoyed the most about this city was its attractive, pedestrian friendly, non-touristy historical district. The largest auto-free district we saw during our trip. The city of Murcia was founded in 831 by the Moors when they built a walled city on the banks of the river Segura, to be their provincial capital.

Demographics – With a metro population of 623,000, Murcia is Spain’s eleventh biggest city. Though Murcia is only 21% smaller than Alicante, we found the city to be far less cosmopolitan than its neighbor.

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Murcia Cathedral – Murcia’s cathedral was built in late 1300s in a Gothic style on the former site of a mosque and was later given a baroque facelift. This cathedral has a museum of religious artifacts and the second-tallest bell tower in Spain.

Real Casino (Royal Casino) – The Real Casino’s name is a bit misleading. The use of the word casino here is of Italian origin meaning social club. This opulent casino opened its doors in 1847 as a gentlemen’s club. The casino is still used as a social club for the elite of Murcia, and now even women are allowed to join. After witnessing a period of decline, the building has been painstakingly restored to its former opulent grandeur with a dazzling Moorish-style patio, a classical English-style library, a neoclassical billiard room, and a lavish ballroom with glittering chandeliers. Although this is a private club the ground floor is open to the public for a small fee.

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